Sunday, May 6, 2007

China

My China experience was different from that of many other folks. Many chose to travel in China between Hong Kong and Qingdao (pronounced Chin-dow or ching-dow), visiting Beijing, Shanghai, Xian (home of the terra-cotta soldiers), and other places. Well, I’m not made of money, so I passed on those experiences after my big-ticket safari and Borneo trip. I spent two days in Hong Kong then two days on ship to Qingdao. Those two days were nice, though – about 85 folks on ship, very leisurely, two FANTASTIC dinners (prime rib/cherries jubilee, steak/crème brulee), discount haircuts and massages, no other responsibilities. Now that would be the way to do the whole voyage…..

We arrived in Qingdao, and we ported in an industrial area, something we have become accustomed to. However, this was VERY industrial. We needed to walk about a quarter mile to get out to a street where we could even get a taxi. I think this was the most challenging port language-wise as well. I saw virtually no English on signs (until, are you ready for this, “Wal-Mart”!!) and very few folks spoke any English, far fewer than anywhere else. Then when everything is in characters, it further decreases one’s ability to try to decipher. Folks who took taxis took a copy of the ship’s port location written in characters to show taxi drivers. This produced mixed results – definitely no guarantee of success. We heard similar things from folks who took other trips within China.

I did a day trip which took us to a reflexology school and a traditional Chinese medicine center. Our guide was not very fluent either, so I got more of a visual tour of the city than an informational one. At the reflexology school, all 19 of us were given a reflexology massage. Of course, I was last one in the door and there 18 stations. So they dragged another station in and put it right in the front of the room. Always what I like. Then, I got the instructor. 18 women doing reflexology, and one male….he was providing a running commentary which was “translated” by the guide. I think he said a lot more than we heard. Plus he was sure to be very emphatic about everything he did. So, bottom line, it hurt like hell in some spots! People were laughing at me, because I was sweating! I didn’t want to be too much of a wuss, particularly since getting worked on by the instructor also meant getting your picture taken by the school’s photographer. Don’t mistake reflexology for a soothing foot massage; I was sore for days, plus the sole of my foot was bruised. I just hoped for some overall benefit.

We also visited a traditional Chinese medicine center. I was a bit familiar after working with Esther Stephens (now Cuellar?), Peter’s sister. They demonstrated some acupuncture, cupping, and some very specific massages for problem areas. It’s interesting in and of itself, as well as in the degree to which it is beginning to spread through the Western world. We in Seattle have Bastyr University which I believe offers a master’s in Chinese medicine; the school also widely integrates the separate components into their curriculum.

So that evening was my only chance to get out and have a local dinner, so I ventured forth with Marvel the counselor and Susan, spouse of the faculty member (who could have been one of my students at UT Austin). We barely got to the main street and were trying to hail a taxi when we were intercepted by a woman who spoke some English. Well, my dislike of entanglements and basic “trust no one” attitude would have led me to decline her offers of help, but the other two went with it – not enthusiastically, I must say, but more survivalistically. We were aiming for the Night Market, and she said she would help us get there. She helped us hail a taxi and explained our destination to the driver, then imagine our surprise when she hopped in the taxi with us!

Well, we did make it to the night market. Imagine our surprise again when she hopped out and came with us! See, entanglements. Susan was looking for a Beijing Olympics t-shirt, so this woman took us on a mission to find that. We had also mentioned that we were going to have dinner, and she said she knew a great restaurant. So we walk around looking for this shirt, no luck, and then we are hungry and plan to stop in some place to eat. Every place we look at, she says, “No good! Too expensive!” As we gradually, though quickly in the end, came to figure, she owned a restaurant near where she “ran into” us, and was trying to hustle us to go to her restaurant. We told her that we did not want to go all the way back almost to the ship to eat; for one thing, we had no idea what she was involved with, and secondly, if it didn’t work out, we wouldn’t have a place to eat as there were not any or many restaurants in that area (or we would have started with dinner).

She was getting increasing strident and I at least was getting increasingly determined to eat where we were. So finally we went in a noodle soup place – when we actually ordered and paid, she then got the idea that she was not going to be successful. Susan gave her 10 yuan to get a taxi and go away. Money well spent, we collectively decided. The noodle soup was great, with a side of cabbagey stuff like kim chee, and even a drink for very cheap. We chose the place because it had pictures on its menu – amazing what you can accomplish by pointing. I continued my chopstick practice on the noodles. Mine, however, came with a whole boiled egg, and that I must say thwarted me and my sticks. So I stabbed it.

Very luscious and I had no illness problems, with that or any food in any country. On our way back my companions each bought another giant suitcase in the Night Market to hold all their port loot. We got a taxi back, stuffed it with ourselves and two giant suitcases, and were fortunate that our taxi driver understood the written directions.

The next day, I was just not up to all the challenges, and was not alone in just remaining on the ship, relaxing, catching up, and looking forward to Japan. The Great Wall, Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and all the rest will have to wait until I can schedule a return visit to China.

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

HONG KONG

Hong Kong was amazing. It was a forest of buildings surrounding the harbor on both sides. The side attached to the mainland is Kowloon near the harbor, turning into the “New Territories” farther inland. Across the water from that is what we think of as Hong Kong. We docked in Kowloon right near the famous Star Ferry, which crosses over to Hong Kong.

Where to start? Well, we were in a prime location in many ways, and it was easy to get around. The gangway from the ship led directly into a mall. What could be better? Mall understates it; it was a rabbit warren of connected malls, restaurants, hotels, and so on. Hundreds if not thousands of shops! Now, the bargains were not as they were in Vietnam. In fact, it was quite expensive, but the shopping lure of HK is the volume of stuff and the fact that it’s all the newest, most current – you name it, fashion, electronics, jewelry, and so on. I was swooning over the flat screen TVs.

We only had two days there. It could be worth a return visit, as it combined an interesting urban experience with a good deal of natural beauty, which I like. We did a city tour which took us up Victoria Peak. Unfortunately, it was completely socked in with fog. First, I felt very much at home – Seattle! Secondly, it was quite a welcome relief from the tropical temperatures we’d had for most of the voyage. The pictures were not great, but folks who went the second day had a clear view. I will try to pilfer some of their pics.

They had a great cable car which ran up and down the mountain, at about a 45 degree angle. We bussed up and cable-carred down, into the main park area, very pretty, and also visited the oldest building in HK, a church dating from the mid-1800s. The entire city is very clean, and really was not as congested as you would think given the population. The food was good and there was a Haagen Dazs right by the ship, offering table service and elaborate and expensive desserts. Yipee.

I walked the harbor walk up a ways, past their film star walk, complete with stars in the sidewalk. I have pictures of a few of the notables: Jackie Chan, Chow Yun Fat, Jet Li, and of course, complete with statue, Bruce Lee. Of course, we all know he is buried in Seattle, but this fact did not seem particularly salient in HK. I also walked up the main street, which was a nice tree-lined boulevard, also lined with shops. I came back via a big city park which had a bird display, a pond, etc. – very nice. Very safe feeling as well. I was still somewhat of a towering giant, although our Chinese tour guide, a woman, was about my height (!) and mentioned that some of the northern people, particularly around Qingdao, our next destination, were quite tall (she was correct).

What was a little more difficult to find in HK was more traditional art or crafts. The tourist stuff is out front, and the traditional stuff is in the smaller markets. I strolled through one, very interesting. There is a big market in jade and some antiques, but I did not end up with either, as I’m not very knowledgeable (nor rich). We glimpsed a food market on our tour, and I was very much reminded of Chinatown in Vancouver BC. We also had a brief tour through Aberdeen’s (!) floating fishing communities, boats at the south end of HK island where fishing folk live very traditionally; some, at least in the past, spent their entire lives on these boats, really never even setting foot on shore. They were a form of untouchables in their way. It was not unreminiscent of some of the floating homes in our fair city, with plants and sometimes gardens right on the boats, of course quite a bit more rustic.

HK has maintained its character even after reverting back to China. They refer to “Two systems, one country.” HK maintains its own currency, own postal system I believe (a good one), and most of the trappings of capitalism in a communist country. It’s economically pretty strong and quite attractive to other Chinese who wish to immigrate, which they control fairly strictly. One reason is that it’s quite populous, and they are expanding the land into the harbor to accommodate more, since most of the area is mountains (around 60% I think). The harbor shrinks, people build up the sides of mountains and in every available space, and there you are. One of the neat features was the nightly light show downtown. Buildings are equipped with colored neon/LED/laser lights and/or white spotlights, and every night at 8 they do a light show to music. I got some decent photos (and a bunch of crappy ones).

It was a very first-world area, complete with the ubiquitous KFC, pretty and fun. For shoppers, it’s a paradise, but there is also enough cultural interest as well as natural beauty to engage those who don’t shop till they drop. Besides, there’s that Asian size thing again…..

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Thanks for Your Comments! - with a couple of additions on May 3rd

Greetings All!

I was able to respond to some comments and questions before, and I will do so again. One thing I’ve noticed is that people don’t necessarily post their comments in the most recent blog, so I am going back and reviewing all the entries periodically to make sure I don’t miss anyone.

I neglected to respond to an early question of Mrs. BG about my cabin and the food. First, the food is quite good, far above what I remember residence hall food to be, but of course below cruise ship food (though they do have their moments). The only problem is the repetitive nature of the food, as what they can get in each port is somewhat limited. Two examples: one, the lettuce is now yellow. We joke that it has been genetically modified since we left. Another is that all the milk is boxed. Now, I’ve never seen milk routinely sold like that (absent the little juice-box sizes of chocolate milk, which I would kill for now, incidentally….) and it just don’t taste right. So I’m off cereal which was a huge loss. Actually, I miss a lot of breakfasts, so it wasn’t really that huge. I have replaced cereal with yogurt, to help out probiotically with the large varieties of port food.

We run off ship to eat in port. Or maybe that’s just me. I didn’t eat on ship a single time while we were in Japan, again mostly to get more variety. (Maybe that’s why I spent so much money there). We also buy snacks and some grocery items since we have fridges in the room. That all said, during the sail from Hong Kong to Qingdao, we had spectacular dinners, all resembling the Captain’s Dinners to which faculty and staff get at least one invitation. There was a small shipboard population during that time; most folks were traveling within China, through Beijing, and joined the ship in Qingdao, so we only served about 85 folks. The first night was prime rib with cherries jubilee for dessert, and the second night was grilled sirloin with crème brulee, all served to the tables rather than through the buffet line (the mysterious “table service” that I have referred to).

My cabin is small and among student cabins, compared with the fairly luxurious suites some faculty and staff have. Not complaining!! The bathroom is larger and nicer than we had on our Alaska cruise. There are two small beds, one of which I use for storage and filing. Ample storage, and a table I use as a desk for the laptop, speakers, and phone. TV. All very nice! I do have some pictures. There are also pictures on the SAS website, which actually gives quite a bit of info about what we are doing.

Hello, Donna Devious! I certainly did not wish to miss or overlook YOUR comments! I’m so glad you are tuning in, as I sail with Beth Hellwig-Olson and Merna Jacobsen from the University of Northern Colorado. Did you ever encounter either of them? Merna in particular was very memorable – big red/orange hair, big presence. I am not much of a blogger, and I’m hoping Sheilagh has saved my emails and (email and regular) postcards as a record of my voyage. The picture thing (thang) is limited by our technology on-ship; I even had to get an emergency e-mail account in yahoo because our technology could not support hotmail. So I will have pictures available when I return, and I will either slide them into the blog later or do photo albums on-line. One of my excellent colleagues here hails from your state, though she is in Los Alamos. Maybe I’ll have to pass by NM soon.

And Jean S&M, it all goes back to you. You introduced us all to SAS during our collective time at UNC. I even interviewed at that time; obviously I was not selected, but all things come around when the time is right. I’m sure many things are the same about our voyages, as well as many things being different (the ship, for one – very luxurious!). Thanks for giving us all our first exposure to SAS. FYI Larry Singell is our Exec. Dean and Ron Wisner is our Asst. Dean.

Hello Kristen Happy! I will think of you when I arrive in Honolulu. Thanks for your kind words, particularly about class. I will actually do a couple of classes for faculty members while I’m here, so I’m never that far from the role. Congrats on your new job as well!! It’s great to work with smart folks, and news flash, you are one of those, as are all “my people.” I won’t be driving back through SF after all, so I won’t get a chance to see you (unless you are planning to be in San Diego around May 14). Darn. Have fun! (Hey to Gary – hope he isn’t still afraid of me…..)

Hi Aunt Gloria – you are one of the few family member I still claim (I think Ginger and Joe in Seattle are in that group too) – yes, world, I have family. I hope you can make it up our way soon this summer! I’ll be in touch when I get back.

Hello, Sarah (or Kris, I’m unclear) – I thought it fairly hilarious that you found my blog to see what was happening on your son’s voyage. Of course, if he and I had spoken “officially,” that would be our little secret; but I have interaction with lots of students through trips, clubs, meals, etc. whom I would never dream that I would see officially. And I even know another number by sight, so I may well know Marcus, and I’m sure he is as you describe. Perhaps he is keeping a written journal and you will get a full story later.

Hi Shon. Actually, sunburn is the least of my problems – some days at sea I never actually get out the door! It’s pretty scandalous, but we ARE working…..I tried for a little color in Vietnam, and perhaps between Japan and San Diego, though it’s a little brisk for the last couple of days. We are probably moving back in your direction, though probably not all the way to New York. I’ll keep you posted – did you start school at Brockport yet? My friend still chairs the English Dept. there. Get on it!

Hello Erin. Did you ever find an exclamation point that you didn’t like? Or three!!! We’ll catch up when I get back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Megan, what a good question. There’s a lot of laudatory research about the current crop of “Millennial Generation” students. I read some initially, and I’ll read more, but this experience is giving me more of a balanced view – no group is unreservedly positive. Very different from the experiences I had with students at UNC in the 90’s, especially as you all were so special, to a person. I miss you all! These students are very concerned to be perceived as good people. It’s hard for me to make general comments as my role here as judicial person skews my perception.

As far as campus life, we have all the ingredients - about 100 different classes offered from 8-5 by about 35 faculty, a library and computer lab, plus a res life component, activities, counseling, health services, a good number of clubs and organizations, a judicial function, even a "cop," plus unique bits like the program for the elders and for the dependent children who are going to school while on board. There are classes every day at sea with stuff every night, with extensive lists of trips and activities in each port. So there are lots of similarities, but the differences would have to be first in the self-contained nature of the community in which faculty are in the environment with student's 24/7, which is usually a brand new and challenging experience for them. For us Student Life people, we are used to having such close contact with students, so it's nothing unique. There are some faculty who have no idea what students are like outside a classroom. Here they are getting a crash course. Also, we move very quickly here. Time is condensed; programs are planned and executed in days if not hours, appointments made no more than a day or two ahead, we all work on the fly and respond quickly to anything and everything. Lastly, there is a single course that everyone on ship participates in, as a way to unify the community; another difference would be that every course has an international dimension to it.

This topic does give me the excuse to blow our collective horn a bit – the administrators who have sailed multiple times, as well as the ship’s crew who have dealt with student behavior, have said REPEATEDLY AND EMPHATICALLY that this voyage is by far the best they have experienced in terms of student behavior, with the fewest and least serious incidents, etc. Our Student Life staff set a tone and created a system which held folks accountable and stressed how serious we were about behavior issues, in a caring way. I think we have been highly successful, and I’m pleased about my role in that.

And hi to Ginger and Joe! Thanks for reading about my adventure. I’ll have another gathering at the house to showcase my souvenirs and pictures. And if Gloria visits we can have our own reunion.

Well OK! I must run to dinner, having said that I want to have every remaining dinner out on the deck. More programs and activities this evening, as every evening, and I have deck duty during bar service, so it will be a long night particularly after you figure in another clock change ( with more to come, then the Dateline…) I will be back on the mainland in less than two weeks! Amazing. More to come, as fast as my little fingers can type. Bye, and thanks for visiting my THANG.